Top 10 Drift Cars

The top 10 Best Cars for Drift

1. Nissan Silvia S15

• The best, but high priced Silvia
• Drifting at its best!
  

• Production : 1999–2002
• Body style(s) : 2-door coupe, 2-door convertible
• Layout : FR layout
• Engine(s) : 2.0 L DOHC-I4 (SR20DE), 165 PS 2.0 L DOHC Turbo-I4 (SR20DET), 250 PS
• Transmission(s) : 5 or 6 speed manual transmission 4 speed automatic
• Wheelbase : 99.4 in (2525 mm)
• Length : 175.0 in (4445 mm)
• Width : 66.7 in (1695 mm)
• Height : 50.6 in (1285 mm)
• Curb weight : 2650-2800 lb (1200-1270 kg)
  

2. Toyota Corolla AE86

• The most popular drift car ever
• Teaches you how to drive
  

• Production 1983–1987
• Body style(s) 2-door coupé, 3-door coupé
• Layout Front-engine, rear-wheel drive
• Engine(s) 1.5 L 3A-U I4, 1.6 L 4A-C I4, 1.6 L 4A-GEU I4, 1.6 L 4A-GEC I4
• Transmission(s) 5 speed manual, 4 speed automatic
• Wheelbase 94.5 in (2,400 mm)
• Length 165.5 in (4,200 mm)
• Width 64.0 in (1,630 mm)
• Height 52.6 in (1,340 mm)
• Curb weight 1,950 lb (880 kg) to 2,075 lb (941 kg)
  

3.Nissan 180SX/200SX

• A common choice for drifters
• Low budget & great for drifting

• Production 1989–1998
• Class Sport compact
• Body style(s) FR coupe
• Platform S13
• Engine(s) 1.8 L CA18DET I4, 2.0 L SR20DE I4, 2.0 L SR20DET I4
• Wheelbase 2474 mm (97.4 in)
• Length 4521 mm (178.0 in)Width 1689 mm (66.5 in)
• Height 1290 mm (50.8 in)
• Curb weight 1220 kg (2690 lb)
  

4. Mazda RX-7 (FD3S)

• Popular but limited availability
• Rotary, but a lot of downsides

• Production 1978–2002
• Class Sports car
• Body style(s) 2-door sports coupe
• Layout FMR layout
  

5. Toyota Supra

• Exotic looking
• Mind boggling performance

• Also called Toyota Celica Supra
• Production 1979–2002
• Assembly Japan
• Class Sports car, Grand Tourer
• Body style(s) 2+2 fastback, GT coupe
• Layout Front-engine, rear-wheel drive
  

6. Nissan 350Z

• Solid drift car
• Great looks but more expensive

• Also called Nissan Fairlady Z
• Production 2002–present
• Class Sports car /Roadster
• Body style(s) 2-door coupe / 2-door roadster
• Layout FMR layout
• Platform Nissan FM platform
• Engine(s) 2005-20083.5 L (210 cu in) VQ35DE V6 287 bhp (214 kW) 274 ft·lbf (371 N·m), 2005 (35th Anv & Track), 3.5 L (210 cu in) VQ35DE RevUp V6 300 bhp (220 kW) 260 ft·lbf (350 N·m), 2006 3.5 L (210 cu in) VQ35DE RevUp V6 300 bhp (220 kW) 260 ft·lbf (350 N·m), 2007-present 3.5 L (210 cu in) VQ35HR V6 306 bhp (228 kW) 268 ft·lbf (363 N·m)
• Transmission(s) 5-speed automatic 6-speed manual
• Wheelbase 2,649 mm (104.3 in)
• Length 2003-05: 4,303 mm (169.4 in) 2006-08: 4,314 mm (169.8 in)
• Width 1,816 mm (71.5 in)
• Height 2003-05, Hatchback: 1,318 mm (51.9 in), Roadster: 1,328 mm (52.3 in) 2006-08
• Curb weight 3188 lbs (1446 kg) - 3602 lbs (1634 kg)
• Fuel capacity 76 L (20 US gal)
  

7.Nissan Silvia S13

• Started the Silvia drifting legend
• Low budget & great for drifting

• Body style(s) 2-door coupe
• Layout FR layout
• Engine(s) 1.8 L DOHC-I4 (CA18DE) 1.8 L DOHC Turbo-I4 (CA18DET), 2.0 L DOHC-I4 (SR20DE), 140 PS, 2.0 L DOHC Turbo-I4 (SR20DET), 205 PS
• Transmission(s) 5 speed manual transmission4 speed automatic
• Wheelbase 97.4 in (2475 mm)
• Length 176.0 in (4470 mm)
• Width 66.5 in (1690 mm)
• Height 50.8 in (1290 mm)
• Curb weight 2450-2675 lb (1110-1210 kg)
  

8.Skyline R34 GT-T

• The legendary Skyline!
• Great balance & RB power

9.Nissan Silvia S14

• Cheap S15 alternative
• Silvia inheritage

• Production 1994-1998
• Body style(s) 2-door coupe, 2-door convertible
• Layout FR layout
• Engine(s) 2.0 L DOHC-I4 (SR20DE), 160-165 PS,2.0 L DOHC Turbo-I4 (SR20DET), 225-250 PS
• Transmission(s) 5 speed manual transmission 4 speed automatic
• Wheelbase 2525 mm (99.4 in)
• Length 4498 mm (177.0 in)
• Width 1727 mm (68.0 in)
• Height 1288 mm (50.7 in)
• Curb weight 1253 kg (2762 lb)
  

10.Toyota Mark II

• Only available on Japan
• 4-dors drifting

• Production 1968 - 2004
• Successor Toyota Mark X
• Class Mid-size/ Full-size car
• Body style(s) 4-door sedan, 5-door station wagon
• Engine(s) 1JZ-GTE, 1GG-GTE(U), 18R-GEU, 1G-EU, M-EU, 4M-U, 18R, 7R
• Transmission(s) R154 man, A341 auto
  

Calendar Drift Championship

September
Sat 6th - Sun 7th :

European Drift Championship Round 5 Silverstone
Sat 20th - Sun 21st :

JDM Allstars Round 3 Lydden Hill Circuit
Fri 26th :

European Drift Championship Practice - Poznan Poland
Sat 27th :

European Drift Championship Round 6 Poznan Poland
Sat 27th :

Prodrift EU Round 6 Teeside UK


Published link: http://www.driftworks.com/calendar/

Drift car setup and tuning

Drift car setup and tuning - "Drifting - a tyre makers dream."

For drifting you must have a rear wheel drive car or a four wheel drive car which has most of the power going to the rear wheels. Assuming you want to go into drifting on a budget you will need a car you can afford to break and repair easily. You will have lots of crashes, and mistakes when you are starting out so something like a Ford Sierra or an older American car will have a ready supply of cheap parts.
The only essential modifications for drifting are the Diff and suspension. Obviously weight reduction and increasing the power output of the engine would be nice but on a budget and while you are learning these are unimportant.

Lets look first of all at the Diff (limited slip diff or LSD hereafter) and what it does. Imagine you have a pencil with 2 cotton reels on each end. When going in a straight line both cotton reels rotate at the same speed. But when on a curve the reel on the outside needs to rotate faster than the inner reel otherwise it will just be slipping over the surface and not gripping.

The LSD in a car sends the driven power proportionally to the wheels with more going to the wheel that needs to rotate a greater distance. The drawback of having a Slip Diff fitted is that when one wheel has no grip and spins all of the power goes to this wheel. It is something you'll notice if you have one wheel in snow or mud and the other on a grippy surface leaving you effectively stuck. On a fast road you can get a sharper turning circle and put down more power if you moderate the rate of power going to each wheel. An LSD is exactly that and is usually specified as a ratio. For drifting you need a locking diff which encourages the back to slide over the road helping to prolong the duration of the drift.

An adjustable diff will give the best of both worlds but can prove very expensive and is not something available for most cars so go with something like a 2 way diff with 4.788 final drive ratio. On a track or road the LSD will make a big difference to lap times and cornering speeds especially in low grip conditions like wet roads or when you are really hammering the engine so if you intend to do some track work get a slightly higher ratio diff.

The second area we shall consider is suspension modifications and setup for drifting and you will find detailed articles on Torquecars tuning pages if you want to go into more detail. For drifting you don't really negative camber, just lower it to get rid of body roll stiffen, unless your going into drifting seriously. As a rule, the more camber you roll on, the sharper the turn in will be.When you are starting out the body roll can actually give you a wider margin of error as well as reducing your overall control of the drift. Anti roll bar & sway bar stiffening, strut braces, poly bushes and firmer springs are worth considering but again not an essential. As you get better you will be able to set up the suspension to suit your personal driving style and preferences so if you go for an uprated suspension kit make sure it is adjustable or you will need to go out and buy another set of springs and dampers later on.

The Toyota Corolla AE86 is becomming the classic drift car of choice.They are a really good starter car for drifting the power band is just right, nicely balanced. They cost a fortune to buy now. I would stick fairly standard and go for lightening the car - this has better dividends in drifting. If you wanted to spend a bit of money we spoke with an AE86 drifter and asked about his AE86 setup.
Fantastic for drifting is the Toyota Corolla AE 86 (Hachi Roku - Japanese for eight six.) and speaking to a drifter we picked up the following tips and advice.He recommended a limited slip diff 2 way with a 4.778 final drive ratio.
He also added an APEXi SAFC II fuel controller too. Get more power from the car an engine swap was done and his selection of engine for drift competition use:- An AE92 big port engine (red top) Toda cams 304/288 duration 8.5mm lift.
Mated toToda adjustable cam pulleys, NGK R plugs, OER Quad throttle body kit with pipercross or K&N Filters.

Exhaust - Trust DD exhaust.

Tein coilovers at the front but on the rear use something like the TRD's blue SS 8 way adjustable shock.

Stick on some 9x14in rims with 185/60/14 Yoko A539 (Check the tyre size I'm not too sure of that for those rims but for drifting you certainly want a tight fit to the rim!)

You will also need a ready supply of tyres as you will get through them at an alarming rate. When you go to the track make sure you have a spare set of wheels and tyres so you can get home legally! The final word has to be PRACTICE, PRACTICE and PRACTICE. Patience, steady control and very deliberate slow throttle and steering controls are the difference between hacking a car around and drifting. Join the forum to meet up with our drift fanatic members and swap tips and ideas with them.

Builds a concept car for Drifting

FPV builds a concept car for Drifting

March 3, 2006 Motor racinghas always been about speed. For the last 100 years, Motorsport has been about racing from point A to Point B, and subsequently, once racing circuits were built, from point A to Point A. Now there’s a new form of Motorsport evolving and when Australian Ford subsidiary Ford Performance Vehicles developed an “unofficial” concept carspecifically for the new sport, we decided it was time to sit up and take notice. The sport is known as “drifting” and if you haven’t heard of it, no doubt you soon will – whatsmore, unlike all prior forms of Motorsport, it isn’t about speed. If motor racing is the equivalent of the 100 metre freestyle in the pool at the Olympics, think of drifting as synchronised diving. Originating in Japan and popularised by computer games in the US, drifting combines extreme driving skill with flair and artistry as drivers negotiate complex courses or routines in a controlled slide. Combining both solo qualifying runs with head-to-head competition, each event is judged on execution and style rather than speed, and is akin to skateboarding and freestyle motocross competition. So what makes an ideal concept car for Drifting? Ford’s DRIF6 features a lightweight chassis, racing cockpit and uprated version of its critically-acclaimed intercooled and turbo charged 4.0-litre in-line six cylinder producing more than 380kW of power and 700Nm of torque.

There is a tradition at each FPVFamily Open Day for a group of volunteers from FPV and Prodrive to create a project car to showcase their abilities and generate some excitement among the visitors. This year, the team created a specially-modified one-off version of the FPV F6 Typhoon sedan designed to tackle similar turbo-charged performance cars in the spectacular new form of motor racing: Drifting. DRIF6 features a lightweight chassis, racing cockpit and uprated version of its critically-acclaimed intercooled and turbo charged 4.0-litre in-line six cylinder producing more than 380kW of power and 700Nm of torque.
“Drifting is one of the fastest growing forms of motor racing in Australia – and certainly one of the most spectacular,” said FPV’s, Andrew MacLean, “so we let our imaginations drift in that direction.”

DRIF6 was built by a team of dedicated engineers and technicians at FPV’s Campbellfield facility with the assistance and support of a number of key suppliers, including Prodrive, Autotek, Castrol, HIS Hoses, Robinson Racing Developments, Revolution Racegear and Dunlop. At the heart of the DRIF6 project is an upgraded 4.0-litre turbo-charged in line six cylinder engine with modifications made to increase the efficiency of the turbo system and to boost power and torque. These include a significantly larger intercoolerwith a revised induction system that features a ram air box taking air from where the fog light is normally located on the production car, a hand made plenum manifold replacing the individual inlet runners, a unique engine management system calibration and three-inch straight through exhaust system with side outlet.

The transmission has an upgraded Tremec T-56 close-ratio six-speed gearbox and AP racing twin-plate clutch driving the rear wheels through a locked differential.
The braking system includes the optional Brembo brakes available on the F6 Typhoon with 355mm front and 330mm rear cross-drilled and pillar ventilated rotors and six-piston monoblock front calliper and four-piston rear calliper. It has been modified especially for Drifting with high quality braided hoses, a brake proportioning valve and a WRC-style hydraulic handbrake.
The cockpit of DRIF6 has been stripped and replaced with world-class MOMO racing seats and racing harnesses, MOMO steering wheel, MOMO gearknob and a variety of ancillary gauges by VDO and Autron. These include a monster VDO tacho on the dash located in line with the twin-pod sport gauges that display oil temperature and turbo boost pressure, A-pillar mounted gauges to display volts and cabin temperature and Autron’s latest high-tech tyre-press monitoring system located at the base of the Interior Command Centre. The cockpit also has a racing-style roll cage.
The DRIF6 is a concept car designed to showcase the enthusiasm and expertise of FPV’s engineering operations. There are no plans, at this stage, to participate in competitive events.

The FPV Family Open Day featured more than 300 of the best-loved performance Ford vehicles on display from car clubs across Australia and attracted approximately 10,000 visitors.

DRIF6 Specifications
Body: Lightweight F6 Typhoon, Four-door sedan Engine: Turbo-charged and intercooled 4.0-litre DOHC in-line six cylinder Turbo charger: Garrett GT 35/40 Induction system: Hand-made twin-plenum manifold with custom three-inch pipes from turbo charger and intercooler. Ram air intake from lower front bumper into K & N pod filter Engine Management System: Customised calibration Exhaust: Stainless Steel three-inch straight-through with side outlet Intercooler: Front mounted 600mm x 300mm x 75mm Power: Approx 380kW Torque: Approx 700Nm Clutch: AP Racing twin-plate Differential: Locked rear differential, 3.73:1 final drive Brakes: Cross-drilled and pillar ventilated 355mm x 32mm front and 330mm x 28mm rear rotors with Brembo six-piston monoblock front and four-piston rear callipers. HIS braided hoses. Pull-operated hydraulic handbrake with Tilton brake proportioning valve. Seats: MOMO Steering wheel: MOMO Harnesses: Four-point MOMO race harnesses Battery: Optima; mounted in rear of cockpit with central-mounted kill switch Gauges: VDO monster tacho, Autron tyre pressure monitoring system Wheels: 19x8 inch five-spoke alloy in Dark Argent Tyres: 245/35 ZR19 Dunlop SP Sport Maxx Lubricant: Castrol Edge 0W-40



Article Directory: http://www.gizmag.com/go/5284/

Tuning turbo

Are Turbo Cars Really Fast

Turbochargers really do speed up the car. It does this by compressing the air that enters into the engine. In doing so, more air is allowed to enter and thus allowing more fuel to enter as well. By this process, the cylinders in the car will also yield more power resulting to faster acceleration. Turbochargers work in a way that is similar to recycling since it uses the waste steam to power the air compressor. However, because of this, turbochargers are also prone to high heat and may need cooling once in awhile.

Turbo cars do have the advantage over non-turbo cars in that their engine can produce more power. Turbo cars also have better efficiency since heat is being recycled as mentioned above. Turbochargers are also small that they can even fit in 4 cylinder cars. More importantly, turbo cars are fuel efficient in that it can achieve more power as if it were using a larger engine, yet only uses the normal amount of fuel for that particular engine.

Like most things, turbo cars also has its disadvantages in that if an incorrectly fitted and sized turbocharger is used, it will have little or no effect on boosting. Instead of being able to boost quickly, the car may respond poorly to acceleration. Turbocharger also has a turbo lag, which is very inconvenient when racing. Timing is very important to attain a turbo car’s maximum performance. Another disadvantage of turbo cars is that it is costly to install a turbo kit since upgrades are always available and are commonly required. Also, it is very complex to install a turbocharger and you will need to learn a lot of engineering to get it right the first time so you would rather have someone do it for you, which in turns add to the cost.

Turbo cars are indeed faster than non-turbo cars but the decision to have a turbo kit installed in your car must be well-thought of since installing one will not be an easy process. Ask yourself if it is worth your money to install a turbo kit or do you just want one for status symbol? If indeed you are confident enough that you can maintain a turbo car, then by all means get a turbo kit and have it installed. But always remember that driving a fast car does not mean you will compromise safety, so even if you have a turbo car, to drive safely must top your list of road concerns.
By: Roberto Bell
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Drift tuning

Drift tuning

1. Drive train
A proper mechanical limited slip differential (LSD) is almost essential for drifting. Open diffs and viscous diffs cannot be controlled during a sustained slide. All other modifications are secondary to the LSD. Popular drift LSDs include OS Giken & Cusco.
The most popular form of LSD for drifting is the clutch type, in "2-way" form; this is preferred for its consistent and aggressive lockup behavior under all conditions (acceleration and deceleration). Some drift cars use a spool "differential", which actually has no differential action at all, the wheels are locked to each other. Budget drifters also use the welded differential, where the side gears are welded to give the same effect. This makes the car very easy to slide at high speed, but difficult to park, and is hard on the driveline. Torsen and Quaife (available on cars such as S15, FD3S, MX5, JZA8x, UZZ3x) diffs are also adequate.
The clutches on drift cars tend to be very tough ceramic brass button or multiple-plate varieties, for durability, as well as to allow rapid "clutch kick" techniques to upset the balance of the car. Gearbox and engine mounts are often replaced with urethane mounts, and dampers added, to control the violent motion of the engine/gearbox under these conditions.
Gearsets may be replaced with closer ratios to keep the engine in the power band. (Japanese drifters confuse the "L" and call these "cross-mission"[citation needed].) These may be coarser dog engagement straight cut gears instead of synchronised helical gears, for durability and faster shifting at the expense of noise and refinement. Wealthier drifters may use sequential gearboxes to make gear selection easier/faster, while sequential shift lever adapters can be used to make shifts easier without increasing shift speed.

2. Suspension
The suspension in a drift car tends to have very high spring and damper rates. Sway bars are upgraded, particularly on the rear. Caster is often increased to improve the car's controllability during a slide. Most cars use an integrated coilover/shock (MacPherson strut) combination. This type of suspension allows the ride height to be adjusted independently of the suspension travel. There is no perfect height setting or spring/shock combo for any car, but each driver will have their own personal preference. Many suspension manufacturers offer suspension tuned specifically for drifting, allowing many people to enter the sport competitively.
Bushings can be upgraded with urethane parts. Most Nissan vehicles have a floating rear subframe which is usually fixed in position with billet aluminum or urethane "drift pineapples", to prevent the frame moving during drift.
One suspension tuning method, still popular in Japan, is known as "Demon Camber" (Japanese: Oni-kyan). It involves setting the suspension with extreme negative camber in the front to reduce slide. Negative camber on the rear would only induce understeer, making the car more difficult to drift. The front of the car having better grip and less tendency to slide, it is easier to swing the rear of the car around to get a good drift angle. However stability, grip, and overall ability to control the car are compromised. It has thus fallen out of favor as a serious performance-minded suspension setup. However, many cars built for show (such as those driven by bōsōzoku) still use this style of suspension setup for its aggressive look. A few degrees of toe-out on the rear wheels (leading edges angled outward) can reduce rear stability, and make setting up a drift a little easier.

3. Cockpit
Because of the large sideways forces, drivers find it preferable to be retained firmly by a bucket seat, and harness. This allows the hands to merely turn the wheel, as opposed to bracing oneself against the wheel. The steering wheel should be relatively small, dished, and perfectly round, so that it can be released and allowed to spin through the hands as the caster returns the front wheels to center. The locking knob on the hand brake is usually replaced with a spin turn knob, this stops the hand brake locking on when pulled. Some drivers move the hand brake location or add an extra hydraulic hand brake actuator for greater braking force. Many drivers make use of additional gauges to monitor such things as boost levels, oil, intake and coolant temperatures.

4. Engine
Engine power does not need to be high, and in fact if a car has too much power, it can be very hard to handle during a drift. Each driver has their own preference, and drift cars can be found with anything from 100bhp (74kW) to 1000bhp (745kW). Typically, engine tuning is oriented towards achieving linear response rather than maximum power output. Engines also must be equipped with upgraded cooling systems. Not only are the engines pushed very hard, creating lots of heat, but being driven at an angle reduces the airflow through the radiator. For turbocharged engines, intercooler efficiency is similarly reduced. Oil coolers are almost essential. V-mounting the intercooler and radiator improves flow through these components, and keeps the expensive intercooler out of harm's way in the case of a minor accident.



5. Steering
With increased steering angle it is possible to achieve greater angle with the vehicle, it will also aid in spin recovery. This is often done with spacers on the steering rack, custom steering racks, custom tierod ends, or machining the spindles. Increased steering angle often requires other modifications as at some point the tire or wheel will come in contact with other suspension pieces or the inner/outer fenders.

6. Body
Chassis preparation is similar to a road racing car. Roll cages are sometimes employed for safety, and to improve the torsional rigidity of the car's frame, but are compulsory in events that involves the 2+ cars tsuiou runs in the event of a side collision. Front and rear strut tower braces, B-pillar braces, lower arm braces, and master cylinder braces are all used to stiffen the chassis. The interior is stripped of extraneous seating, trim, carpet, sound deadening; anything that is not essential is removed to reduce weight.
Body kits are often attached with cable ties. When the body kit meets the wall or curb, the cable ties snap, releasing the part, as opposed to breaking it. Aero also helps for cooling while the car is sideways.
As drift cars are pushed faster, aerodynamic tuning becomes more important as well. Rear spoilers and wings usually are useful only in large, open tracks where the cars develop enough speed to create a need for more downforce. Wheel arches are often rolled or flared to allow the fitment of larger tires. Airflow to the engine is critical, so the hood is often vented. The popular "whale tail" spoiler is only practical at high speeds (+130 mph), and in street use create drag and/or add weight to the car.
Due to the nature of the hobby, drift cars are typically involved in many minor accidents. Thus, those involved with the sport tend to avoid expensive or easily damaged body kits and custom paintwork.

7. Tires
The cars quite often have different tires on the front and back, and the owner may have quite a few sets. This is because a single afternoon of drifting can destroy a new set of tires. As a rule, good tires go on the front for good steering. On the back, hard-compound tires are used, quite often second-hand ones tend to end up in a cloud of smoke. 15" wheels are common on the rear, as 15" tires are cheap. As a driver gets better, they will most likely want to upgrade the tires used in the rear for a higher grip compound.

Techniques for inducing drift

The basic driving techniques used in drifting are constant, though each car and driver will employ some subset of these techniques. A similarity for all drifting techniques is to be smooth and practice. These techniques include:

1. Beginner techniques
These techniques do not use weight transition. Weight transition it’s techniques where employ a further concept of weight transition. When a vehicle has the load towards the front, the back wheels have less grip than the front, causing an oversteer condition that can initiate a drift.
), so are typically the first thing the novice drifter learns. However they are still used by the most experienced drifters, and require skill to execute properly. These techniques aim to induce a loss of traction on the rear wheels, either by locking the wheel (e-brake drift), or using enough power from the engine to break the traction force (power-oversteer and clutch kick).

2. Hand-brake drift
While the clutch is depressed, the hand brake (or Emergency brake) is pulled to induce rear traction loss. As soon as traction is lost, the driver releases the clutch, countersteers, and depresses the accelerator. This technique is used heavily in drift competitions to drift large corners, or to trim the car's line mid-drift.
When learning to drift using this technique it is important to first countersteer and wait for the car to stop rotating and face the right direction to exit the corner, and only then to press the accelerator to give the car more gas to keep it sideways. If accelerator is pressed too soon or too much, the car will spin out.

3. Power oversteer or Powerslide
It is usually done at the corner exit by stepping on the gas hard, to slide side ways out of the corner. It is most commonly employed by beginners because it teaches steering and throttle control without the danger of an actual entry oriented drift.
In low-power cars power oversteer can be achieved by applying excessive amount of throttle at the end of a shift. As you are releasing the clutch during a shift, or immediately before that while the clutch is still depressed, press accelerator all the way to send more power to the rear wheels than is necessary for a smooth upshift. If done during a turn, the car will begin to slide. This technique can be used to initiate a drift at very low speeds in an underpowered car (e.g., when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear), and to enter in a higher gear while accelerating all the way up to the turn (e.g., accelerate in 2nd on the straight and shift into 3rd as you enter the turn).
The sequence of actions is as follows:
• Accelerate in the straight line leading to the turn.
• Turn the steering wheel to begin the turn.
• Clutch in.
• Shift to the next gear.
• Floor the accelerator.
• Clutch out.
• Wait for the car to go sideways, then countersteer and proceed to exit the corner.
Depending on how much power the car is making it is possible to keep the gas pedal floored from the shift throughout the entire drift, and in a low-power car this is often necessary.



Nissan 240SX Shift Lock Drifting

4. Shift lock (compression slide)
Initiated by downshifting (usually from third to second or fourth to third, and using a very fast shift) instead of braking, without rev-matching, causing the drive wheels to lock momentarily. Helpful for very tight corners, allowing the driver to approach the corner at a slower speed and lower revs, while allowing quick acceleration when exiting the corner. This technique can be very damaging to the engine if mis-used as the ECU is unable to rev limit when the engine is oversped by the rear wheels. Premature downshifters are called "Rod Stretchers".

5. Clutch Kick
This is done by "kicking" the clutch (pushing in, then out, usually more than one time in a drift for adjustment in a very fast manner) to send a shock through the powertrain, upsetting the car's balance. This causes the rear wheels to slip. The foot should be at an angle (heel-toe) so the brake and gas may be pressed as well, this being needed to control speed and stop from spinning out in the drift.
Clutch kick can also be used during a drift to gain angle at the expense of speed. If the car is about to straighten itself out, kicking the clutch will cause it to rotate more. However since power delivery is interrupted while the clutch is depressed the car will lose some speed during the process.

6. Braking drift
This drift is performed by braking into a corner, so that the car can transfer weight to the front. This is immediately followed by throttle, which in an RWD car causes the rear wheels to lose traction. FWD cars can also use this technique as it does not depend on the rear wheels being driven. In FWD cars the front wheels are not allowed to lock due to the continuous power, the rear wheels locks easily due to weight transfer and due to the general front heavy design of FWDs. Good performance brake pads will help this technique.

7. Inertia (Feint) drift or Scandinavian flick
This is done by transferring the weight of car towards the outside of a turn by first turning away from the turn and then quickly turning back using the inertia of the rear of the car to swing into the desired drifting line. Sometimes the hand-brake will be applied while transferring the weight of the car towards the outside to lock the rear wheels and help the rear swing outwards. This type of drifting causes the car to accelerate faster afterwards, because of momentum built up while drifting.
Note that the actual scandinavian flick maneuver in rally driving is more complex than feint drifting. In scandinavian flick the tires are intentionally locked by braking hard right after turning a little away from the corner. While the wheels are locked, the driver applies steering input into the corner, adds throttle while still braking and then rapidly releases the brake pedal. This causes the car to slingshot itself through the corner.

8. Kansei, Lift off, or Taking In
By letting off the accelerator while cornering at very high speeds, cars with relatively neutral handling will begin to slide, simply from the weight transfer resulting from engine braking. The drift is controlled afterwards by steering inputs from the driver and light pedal work, similar to the Braking drift.

Other techniques

Dirt drop
This is done by dropping the rear tires off the sealed road onto dirt, or whatever low-grip surface borders the road, to maintain or gain drift angle. Also colloquially called "Dirt Turbo".

Choku-Dori/Manji (Pendulum)
Otherwise known as over-sway, this technique is done by swaying the car's weight back and forth on straightaways, using countersteer and throttle to maintain a large angle. This is a show maneuver that usually involves many cars following the same line. The car will be drifting straight and will be drifting side to side.